We been waitin' all year to get massive stern, and she finally came through. Fellas callin biggest stern ever surfed with the bigs ones being unpaddleable. Around 4pm the swell dropped to 12 feet and most dudes left. Craziest day of our lives. The walk back in the dark felt like nothing...
Some dude from Jersey called the Pom.
The Pom again. Best thing I've ever filmed.
Hani the skitzwad
Jimmy became a man
Charles. This kid left his Tassie home and moved to the goldy last week. He threw down every last cent to make it home for this swell. Now he has no money to get back. Crazy.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Getting skunked and rained on three days straight aint fun. An entire wardrobe cycle. A ruined 50mm f1.4 sitting in the bin. James Cakes quit bodyboarding twice. So we threw down on a whim, Cakes unfastened the noose and Bryce Gage (Fever auxilary angle) enjoyed a few extra zeds. Six foot nuggan and empty. Finlay did so many jumps he rolled in and threw up on the rocks.